Oceanside Slide

I spent a beautiful sunrise morning today with my dear, old friend Moana and bodysurfing partner Bret "The Threat." We went to the north side of the Oceanside pier, where we were greeted by clean surf in the 3-4' range, and chilly winter water.

The experience was bittersweet. On one hand, it felt so good to be in the water, enjoy the view, and swim with my friend. I remembered the many mornings I have spent this way; floating, watching the sun crest over the horizon, the pelicans fly by. Scrambling outside when a big set rose, swimming hard to get to a shoulder, or ducking under just enough to avoid the lip, yet capture the wave's energy to breach up out the back. Few things in life have brought me such joy.

February 2006, San Clemente (Mahalo to Huge)

I caught a long left and felt the exhilaration of sliding down the face, cruising down the line, and milking every second of the ride before ducking in, coming to the surface, and grinning ear-to-ear as I swum back out. I felt the joy of camaraderie with a friend I'd learned to ride with - one I knew was capable, equally appreciative of the experience, and would drag my ass out of the water should I find trouble.

August 2005, Encinitas

On the other hand, he almost had to. After 4 years of injury-plagued absence, my bodysurfing fitness leaves much to be desired. I couldn't really go for it, for fear of hurting myself again. I mourned this lost part of my life, desperately wished to have it back, and felt numbed by my powerlessness to affect it (that and the water was freaking cold). A profound sadness accompanied the spiritual fulfillment, and I wondered if on balance the experience was good or bad.

Nonetheless, when exiting the water (cramping, and having shot the pier), as always I bowed to offer thanks:

Mahalo moana - again soon, I hope.